Home > Skin & Hair > Niacinamide vs. Glycolic Acid: Dermatologists Reveal the Best Choice for Pigmentation

Niacinamide vs. Glycolic Acid: Dermatologists Reveal the Best Choice for Pigmentation

Dr. Mugi Anju

7 Min Read

Fast Check Fact Checked

Niacinamide is well-suited for all skin types, even sensitive ones. Glycolic acid works best on normal to oily skin, as it can be irritating in high concentrations. For mild to moderate pigmentation, Niacinamide is a good choice, while stubborn discoloration or rough texture may benefit more from Glycolic acid’s resurfacing power. Consider your overall skincare goals: Niacinamide offers broader benefits beyond pigmentation, whereas Glycolic acid is more focused on exfoliation and brightening.

Which is better, Niacinamide or Glycolic acid? To understand this, let’s first understand what pigmentation is, and then we’ll quickly compare the benefits of both Niacinamide and Glycolic acid before revealing the expert opinions of our Dermatologists so that by the end of it, you’ll have a better understanding of which treatment may work best for you.

Understanding Pigmentation

Pigmentation refers to the coloring of your skin. It’s determined by melanin, a pigment produced by specialized skin cells. Pigmentation issues occur when there’s an excess or uneven distribution of melanin. We’ve covered more about melanin in this blog: Can a dark-skinned person become fair? Check it out!

Coming back to our topic:

Here are some of the most common types of pigmentation issues:

(1) Hyperpigmentation: These are darker patches of skin caused due to excess melanin production.

(2) Melasma: These are brown or grayish-brown patches often caused by hormonal fluctuations and sun exposure.

(3) Sunspots (Age Spots): These are flat, darkened spots resulting from years of sun exposure.

Read: How do you get rid of sunspots on your face?

(4) Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: These are dark marks remaining after skin injuries or inflammation, such as acne.

Causes of pigmentation

Several factors can contribute to pigmentation concerns. The major ones include:

(1) Sun Damage: UV exposure is the primary culprit behind most pigmentation problems.

(2) Hormonal Changes: Pregnancy, birth control, or other hormonal shifts are some of the causes that trigger melasma.

(3) Inflammation: Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs after acne, eczema, or other skin injuries.

(4) Genetics: Some individuals have a predisposition to certain types of pigmentation.

How Niacinamide Works for Pigmentation?

Having understood what pigmentation is and its types, let’s now understand how Niacinamide works. Niacinamide is a powerful form of vitamin B3 that has multiple benefits. Key benefits include:

(1) Blocks Melanin Transfer: Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin to the surface of the skin, reducing the appearance of dark spots.

(2) Strengthens Skin Barrier: A healthy skin barrier minimizes inflammation and protects against environmental stressors that can worsen pigmentation.

(3) Evens Skin Tone: Niacinamide helps fade existing discoloration and promotes a smoother, brighter complexion overall.

(4) Anti-inflammatory & Antioxidant: It calms inflammation and protects skin cells from free radical damage caused by sun and pollution.

Read: 7 Skincare Benefits of Niacinamide Serum for Acne.

How to use Niacinamide for Pigmentation?

Serums are the most effective way to deliver Niacinamide. Choose a concentration of around 5% for optimal results.

Why Serums?

Serums are lightweight formulas with a high concentration of active ingredients. This allows Niacinamide to penetrate the skin more deeply and deliver its benefits effectively.

A 5% Niacinamide concentration is a great starting point, balancing efficacy with minimizing potential irritation. If your skin tolerates it well, you might gradually increase it to 10% for even more pronounced results.

How to apply Niacinamide?

Apply Niacinamide twice daily, after cleansing and before moisturizing:

Cleanse your face thoroughly before applying a thin layer of Niacinamide serum. Allow it to absorb slightly before applying your moisturizer to seal in the hydrating and skin-strengthening benefits.

Consistent use is key! Using Niacinamide in both your morning and evening skincare routines will help you see the best results.

Be patient and consistent! Results may take several weeks to become noticeable.

Our product recommendation: MFine 10% Niacinamide serum.

niacinamide serum mfine

Skin type: For all!

Benefits:

Smoother, smaller-looking pores
Hydrated, glowing skin
Faded dark spots & sun damage
A brighter, more even complexion

Check the complete product details here.

How Glycolic Acid Works for Pigmentation?

Next, let’s now take a closer look at Glycolic acid, including its key benefits, who should use it, and how to use it.

Glycolic acid is the most studied alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and has excellent exfoliating properties. Key benefits include:

(1) Dissolves Surface Cells: It gently breaks down the bonds holding dead skin cells together, revealing fresh, healthy skin beneath.

(2) Stimulates Cell Renewal: By promoting cell turnover, Glycolic acid helps fade pigmentation and brighten overall skin tone.

Which is the best way to deliver Glycolic acid to the skin?

Glycolic acid is most commonly delivered through leave-on skincare products like serums, lotions, creams, and gels:

Serums: These are lightweight formulas that offer a concentrated dose of Glycolic acid for targeted exfoliation and brightening.

Lotions and Creams: These are formulated for normal to dry skin types, and provide a gentler delivery of Glycolic acid while still offering effective results.

Gels: A good option for oily or acne-prone skin, gels are lightweight and easily absorbed, minimizing the risk of greasiness.

How Glycolic acid improves pigmentation?

Here are some ways in which Glycolic acid helps improve pigmentation:

(1) Exfoliates Pigmented Cells: It helps shed the top layers of skin where excess melanin has accumulated.

(2) Prevents Buildup: Regular use helps prevent further darkening and unevenness.

(3) Enhances Product Penetration: By clearing away dead skin cells, it allows other skin care products, like Niacinamide, to work even more effectively.

How to use Glycolic acid safely?

Start Slowly: Introduce Glycolic acid gradually. Begin with a low-concentration product (5-10%) and use it only once or twice per week. This gives your skin time to adjust and reduces the risk of irritation.

Increase Gradually: If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the concentration or frequency of use. Aim for no more than 3-4 times per week maximum. Always listen to your skin!

Patch Test: Whenever you try a new Glycolic acid product, test it on a small, inconspicuous area like your inner forearm first. Wait 24 hours to observe any possible reactions.

Sun Protection is Vital: Glycolic acid increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every single day, even when it’s cloudy. Reapply your sunscreen throughout the day as needed.

Avoid Over-Exfoliation: Pay attention to how your skin feels. If you notice redness, persistent stinging or burning, peeling, or increased dryness, reduce the frequency of use or take a break entirely. Over-exfoliating can damage your skin barrier.

Nighttime Use is Best: Apply Glycolic acid in the evening as part of your PM skincare routine. This allows your skin to recover overnight.

Don’t Mix with Certain Actives: Avoid using Glycolic acid at the same time as other potentially irritating ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide. It’s best to alternate between actives or use them on different days.

Additional Considerations:

If you have very sensitive skin or certain skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, consult a dermatologist before using Glycolic acid.

Always read and follow the instructions on your Glycolic acid product carefully.

Our product recommendation: MFine 2% Kojic acid + 10% Glycolic Acid Night Serum

glycolic acid night serum mfine

Skin type: For all!

Benefits:

Reveals a luminous, even-toned complexion.
Gentle exfoliation buffs away dead skin for smoother, more radiant skin.
Fade dark spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation.
Improves overall texture for a beautifully refined appearance.

Check the complete product details here.

For a complete list of all MFine Derma Essential products, click here.

In addition to offering a wide range of products to cater to your skin care needs, MFine also provides a FREE consultation with expert Dermatologists.

We also provide a completely FREE skin test that is designed to help you identify the products that are best suited for your skin type. For more information on this test and our other services, please visit our website.

Which is Better: Niacinamide or Glycolic Acid?

The truth is, there’s no single “best” choice between Niacinamide and Glycolic acid. Both are powerful ingredients that address pigmentation but in different ways. Let’s see what the experts recommend.

So which is better? What do the experts have to say?

Dermatologists Emphasize Individual Needs:

Most skincare professionals agree that the ideal choice depends on your specific skin type, pigmentation concerns, and overall skincare goals.

Understanding the Strengths:

Experts acknowledge that Niacinamide is a skin-strengthening powerhouse with broad benefits, while Glycolic acid is a resurfacing pro that delivers more visible brightening effects.

Factors to consider

Let’s revisit the key factors that can help you make the right decision:

Skin Type: Niacinamide’s gentle nature makes it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Glycolic acid, particularly at higher concentrations, is better tolerated by normal to oily skin types. If you have sensitive skin, introduce it cautiously.
Severity of Pigmentation: Niacinamide works beautifully for mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. If you struggle with stubborn discoloration, dark spots, or textured skin, Glycolic acid’s deeper exfoliation may be needed.
Your Skincare Goals: Niacinamide benefits your skin beyond just pigmentation – it strengthens, hydrates, and combats inflammation. Glycolic acid is highly focused on cell turnover, brightening, and smoothing skin texture.

Interestingly, many dermatologists recommend combining Niacinamide and Glycolic acid for a multi-pronged approach to pigmentation. They can be layered (Niacinamide first) or used on alternate days, depending on your skin’s tolerance.

The benefits of combining Niacinamide and Glycolic acid

Niacinamide and Glycolic acid work exceptionally well together, creating a skincare power duo that tackles pigmentation from multiple angles. Here’s why:

Reduced Irritation: Niacinamide, with its soothing and skin-strengthening properties, helps buffer potential irritation caused by Glycolic acid. This makes it a great strategy for those with even slightly sensitive skin who want to reap the benefits of both ingredients.
Complementary Action: Niacinamide addresses the root cause of pigmentation by reducing melanin production while Glycolic acid sheds already pigmented cells. This combined approach leads to a clearer, more even complexion.
Multi-Targeted Results: Together, they not only fade discoloration but also improve skin texture, boost overall radiance, and strengthen your skin barrier – a win-win for healthy, luminous skin!

How to Combine Them:

Layering: Apply a Niacinamide serum first, allowing it to absorb. Follow with your Glycolic acid product. This method is often suitable for those with more tolerant skin.
Alternating Use: Applying Niacinamide in the morning and Glycolic acid in the evening allows you to reap the benefits of both while giving your skin recovery time in between. This is generally a safer approach for those new to acids or with sensitive skin.

FAQs

Can I use Niacinamide and Glycolic acid together?

It depends on your skin’s tolerance. If your skin is resilient, you can layer the products, as described above. If you are sensitive, it’s advisable to use them on alternate days or at different times.

How long does it take to see results?

Both Niacinamide and Glycolic acid require consistent use for visible improvement. You may notice initial improvements within a few weeks, but full results can take 2-3 months.

Are there any side effects?

Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, but minor tingling or flushing might occur initially. Glycolic acid can cause temporary dryness, redness, or increased sensitivity, especially if you are new to AHAs.

Conclusion

To recap the key points, both Niacinamide and Glycolic acid are excellent choices for addressing pigmentation. Niacinamide is gentler and works well for most skin types, while Glycolic acid delivers more powerful skin-resurfacing effects.

Remember, no skincare routine is complete without consistent and diligent SPF use. It’s your best defense against worsening pigmentation and will maximize the results of your Niacinamide or Glycolic acid treatments. Sun damage can undo all your hard work, so consider sunscreen a non-negotiable part of your routine.